
Project Number Twelve
Scratch-built USS Utah cage mast diorama (1911)
Completed in February 2011
For my next diorama project, I'm going to go back to
the old pre-WWI US Navy to examine a little-remembered
aspect of naval shipbuilding. While most warships for
the last 100 years have had tall tubular masts of
rolled steel or sheathed wood, for a short period from
around 1910 to 1925 the US Navy experimented with a
new style of mast that was a cylindrical lattice of
metal tubes. Initial tests showed that this "cage
mast" design would be stronger and lighter, and stand
up to battle damage better, as well as serve as a more
stable base for the spotting platforms that these old
ships relied on. In practice, however, the cage masts
turned out to have serious problems with sway and
vibrating in bad weather and by the early 1920s most
of them had been replaced with traditional solid metal
tripod masts.
Amongst the warships that were built with cage masts
as part of their original designs was the battleship
USS
Utah from 1911. What I'm going to attempt
to model is the top 30 feet or so of the
Utah's
mainmast, showing the spotting tub and a section of
the cage lattice below it, all the way down to the
lateral yardarms.
This "spotting top" was an open station that usually
held a number of range finding and observation
equipment. In the days before radar, a warship had to
visually see an opposing vessel, so the higher up the
eyeballs the further away they could see the enemy.
Also, the higher up, the better they could aim the
guns, as accurate fire depended on being able to
correct your aim based on where the previous shots
landed. This was the cage mast's undoing, as they
didn't provide stable enough platforms for the
targeting equipment to function as needed.
In the picture of the
Utah below, from 1911, note the cage masts and the round "tub"
like structures on top...
As always, it all starts with a piece of
paper and a pencil to draw out the basic plans. It's
looking now like the conical structure will be 8
inches tall and 5 inches wide, with the yardarms
extending out another 4 inches on either side for a
total of 14 inches. Those numbers might (will) change
as the build progresses, but it's a pretty good guess
for now. Going to start with the cage mast portion, which will
be a tapered cylinder 4 and a quarter inches tall, and
4 and a half inches wide at the bottom and tapering
down to around 3 and a half inches at the top. I first
built a form out of a scrap piece of foam board and
stuck four dowel rods into holes drilled with my
knife. I can then use these rods as the framework for
the cage, supergluing the copper wire circles along
the lengths. This, unsurprisingly, turned out to be a
disaster and I had to scrap the whole thing.
Taking a new tact, I wandered around the house with my
ruler until I happened upon an empty tub of cottage
cheese, which turned out to be almost an exact match
(though an inch shorter). With the tub as a form, I made a framework out of 5mm
strips of cardstock, taped down and then held fast
with Elmer's glue. This turned out awesome, once I had
cut the tape with a knife and carefully shimmied it
off.
Once I proved my method would work, I slipped the cage
back on the tub and added more support strips, both
diagonal and vertical, cross-hatched in a lattice
pattern with great care and much glue. After it all
had a chance to dry and set, I slipped the cottage
cheese tub out again and taa-daa! we have a
freestanding cone that's surprisingly strong. All of
this, by the way, only used up half a sheet of card
paper, cut into 5mm strips. Decided to hold off painting until I get more
done. So next step is to build the solid sides of
the "tub" out of cardstock. Hole-punched a line of
drainage holes along the bottom, these were at about
toe-level and kept the tub from filling up in
rainstorms. Set and glued it on, securing the edge
with a bit of tape. Then added a combing and some
internal support strips.
The floor of the tub is cardstock with a square hatch
cutout for the ladder. I also buttressed the underside
of it with wooden popsicle sticks as I'm concerned
about the weight that it will have to hold later.
On the "front" of the mast, facing the bow, is a long
pole that serves as both a brace for a short
horizontal yardarm and the support for a utility crane
for raising and lowering stuff from the tub to the
deck. Made with dowel rods and paper strips. The crane
is a mixture of wooden parts and paper and cardboard. Next I made a windlass for the crane's cable, which
will sit inside the tub. I'll use string for the
actual cable, but not until everything is painted.
Painting time next, two coats of Medium
Gray over all surfaces (boring, but accurate).
Unexpected troubles arose when it became clear that
the single-ply strips of cardstock deformed when the
paint dried, forcing me to use more effort and glue
than expected to straighten out entire sections. I
probably should have expected this, but I forgot, it's
been a while since I painted single layers of
cardstock this way. Anyway, it's done and it looks ok,
even if not especially so up close.
Next need some stuff inside the tub. Built two round
soft-sided canvas bags, probably containing foul
weather jackets, and a heavy, curved metal box,
probably containing observation equipment such as
binoculars and such). Made them all out of clay,
painted a softer Steel Gray. Then wrapped brown
string around the windlass and then up to the pulley
on the crane and to the hook (also made out of clay),
making a pretty good approximation of cable.
(ok, update, project cancelled due to accident damage! Parts salvaged, lessons learned, move along, nothing to see here...)
Thanks!
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